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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.